There are some hotels where the journey is part of the experience. The Sanubari in Sumba is very much one of them.
After leaving Cap Karoso and Arya, the transfer to The Sanubari took around three hours. It is not a quick hop between resorts as you have to transit back towards the airport and then south, but as the road becomes increasingly rural and the landscape opens up, you appreciate the locations of these hotels.
Then you arrive at The Sanubari and the scale of the place becomes immediately apparent.
A Resort That Feels Like Its Own World
Set within a 100-hectare reserve on Sumba’s southwest coast, The Sanubari occupies a huge piece of land, with villas dispersed along approximately two kilometres of white sandy beach. Travelling through the front gates feels like entering a large country estate, albeit on with water buffalo and rice fields.
This is one of the things I liked most about the resort. Despite being a luxury property, it never feels crowded or densely developed. The villas are separated by tropical vegetation and connected by shaded paths, so even when other guests are around, you rarely feel that you are sharing the resort with them.
For me, and for anyone seeking quiet time, time to relax and reflect or just to disconnect, that sense of space is particularly appealing. There is plenty of opportunity to disappear for a few hours, whether that means sitting beside your own pool, walking the beach or taking one of the bikes and exploring the grounds.
The resort’s approach to its natural surroundings is also noticeable and to be applauded. The Sanubari has incorporated water conservation into its environmental programmes, including systems designed to improve water conservation, usage and retention by harnessing natural water flows. It also operates community water programmes in nearby schools, including sustainable water infrastructure and drinking-water filtration initiatives.
That feels especially meaningful on Sumba, where access to clean water remains a significant challenge for local communities.
The Villa: Space, Privacy and Sumbanese Style
My villa was enormous, particularly for a solo stay. There was an immediate feeling of space, with the bedroom opening towards the pool and fields beyond.
The design is one of The Sanubari’s strongest features. It is minimalist without being stark, using natural materials, local craftsmanship and Sumbanese details rather than filling the room with unnecessary decoration. Think creamy marble, timber, wicker, ikat textiles and handcrafted pieces, with large windows and sliding doors allowing the landscape to become part of the interior.
It is luxurious, but in a wonderfully understated way.
And then there is the private pool.
Every villa has its own pool, meaning that privacy is not an upgrade or a special category of accommodation. It is simply part of the Sanubari experience. The villas are sufficiently spread out that you can spend hours in your own little corner of Sumba without seeing another guest.
For me, that was one of the biggest attractions of the property.
The Beach Is the Real Showstopper
The beach at The Sanubari is extraordinary.
White sand stretches for around two kilometres, backed by tropical vegetation and open landscape. Public reviews described it as being almost completely empty much of the time, and that was certainly the feeling I had during my stay. In fact when sending photos to my friends, they asked whether I had just become very good at taking snaps without other people in them, or whether the beach really was that empty!
There are no rows of sunbeds, beach clubs or hawkers. Just soft white sand, sea and the occasional local or fisherman.
For someone who has experienced to increasingly developed beach destinations, the sheer emptiness is quite remarkable and was exactly what I was looking for when booking this trip – a complete change from the hustle and bustle of a city and busy job.
The surf is another attraction. There are breaks along the beach and further along the coastline, and the area has become popular with surfers precisely because the waves remain relatively uncrowded.
Even if you are not a surfer, it gives the beach a wonderful sense of energy. You can watch surfers heading out while walking along the sand, or simply sit and listen to the waves.
The Main Pool and Restaurant
Although having your own pool makes it tempting never to leave the villa, the new infinity pool at the main restaurant is well worth visiting.
It is gorgeous.
Positioned to make the most of the ocean views, it has a much more social atmosphere than the private villa pools, but it still retains the laid-back feel that defines the resort. As every villa does have a pool it also means this infinity pool is not busy, even at meal times.
I also loved the cocktail bar. It is exactly the sort of place where you can sit on your own without feeling remotely awkward. A drink, an ocean view and the Sumbanese sunset make for a very easy way to spend an evening.
The bar and restaurant offer an all-day menu combining Indonesian dishes, seafood and international favourites. The Sanubari describes its food as a farm-to-table experience, working with local farmers and fishermen and using seasonal produce, including fruit, vegetables, herbs and line-caught seafood.
The food menu is broad enough for a longer stay without feeling like a resort afterthought, and I particularly enjoyed the combination of local dishes and familiar options. The cocktails are equally worth making time for, especially as the sun begins to disappear over the beach. I was also fortunate enough to experience an Indonesian tasting menu which took the senses through a range of Indonesian specialties – and this is no European bite-size menu, they are full portion plates!
Take a Bike and Explore
One of the simplest pleasures at The Sanubari is having a bike available.
With a property this large, walking everywhere can take some time, although the paths are beautiful. Having a bike makes it easy to move between the villa, restaurant, pool and beach, and also encourages you to explore rather than simply stay in your room.
The resort promotes cycling and biking trails as one of the ways guests can explore the surrounding landscape and local villages.
For a solo traveller, I particularly liked this freedom. There is no need to organise a buggy every time you want to get out and about. You can simply pick up a bike and go.
One Practical Point If You Have a Late Flight
There is one thing I would definitely bear in mind when planning a short stay.
If you have a late flight from Sumba or are transferring elsewhere, check what arrangements are possible for the end of your stay. While you can continue to use the resort facilities after checking out, including the restaurant and pool areas, there is not necessarily somewhere to shower and change unless a room is available for you to use.
For a resort where the journey to and from the airport can take some time, this is worth considering. If you are heading straight to the airport for the last flight the day, being able to freshen up before the journey would make a significant difference.
It is a relatively small issue in the context of such a beautiful property, but one that is useful to know before booking a short stay.
Is One Night Enough?
Honestly, no.
I enjoyed my one night at The Sanubari enormously, but it felt far too short. The combination of the journey, the enormous property, the beach, the private pool and the sheer sense of peace means that the resort really rewards slowing down.
The Sanubari is not somewhere I would recommend rushing through as part of a packed Sumba itinerary. It is somewhere to stay for a few days, unpack, walk barefoot to the beach, swim in your own pool, cycle around the property, have a cocktail at sunset and allow the hours to pass.
There is enough to do if you want activity, from cycling and surfing to exploring Sumba, but absolutely no pressure to do anything at all.
And perhaps that is the greatest luxury of The Sanubari.
The property is huge, yet intimate. The villas are spacious, yet understated. The beach is spectacular, yet almost deserted. The private pools give you complete seclusion, while the main pool, restaurant and bar provide somewhere to wander when you want a little company.
It feels like a rare kind of luxury: one built around space, nature and privacy rather than crowds and constant activity.
After just one night, I was already wishing I had booked longer.
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