Sadly this doesn’t come with Leonardo di Caprio, but if that’s not a deal breaker, then Koh Phi Phi will definitely give you a slice of beach paradise. Tonsai is the main town on the island and if you’re after a party zone, then find yourself accommodation here. There is a beach which will give you sand, views and bars, and a town which parties late…however, if you’re after a more tranquil paradise, then read on and consider Long Beach, Phak Nam Bay or Loh Ba Kao Bay. Admittedly, these require another boat….but hey, you wanted tranquil and beautiful beaches?
How to get there:
Happily, there is no airport on Phi Phi. This means you have to make a little bit of an extra effort to get there. It’s not a big effort but it does rule out the ‘fly and flop’ tourist. The closest airports are Phuket and Krabi. Unless you are island hopping and / or able to spend more time in Thailand, then I’d recommend Phuket, mostly based on the number of flights into the airport and it being an international hub. It is about an hour transfer from here to the port from where you will pick up your boat. The transfer at Krabi to Klong Jilad Pier is less but the flights are also less frequent. Either way, the boat to Phi Phi is about 1.5-2 hours. If you’re not a fan of small, bouncy boats, then opt for the slower ferry option. For information on ferries, take a look at Andaman Wave Master and they will also arrange pick ups from Phuket Airport. We couldn’t fault their team – from pick up at Phuket airport, to trying to get us on an earlier boat, and the return journey, it was friendly and slick….I’m sure you could do the trip cheaper, but we were after certainty and ease.
Where to stay:
Well, this depends on the type of holiday you want. If you want constant party, lots of food and drink options and plenty of tourists, then Tonsai is probably the place for you. It is busy, loud, full of tourists, and like any other town catering for partying tourists in Thailand. It does have a long, wide beach which is skirted with bars and restaurants and a wide range of accommodation options.
If you want something less frenetic and quieter, then I’m afraid you’ll have to navigate a long-tail boat for a short trip around the island…there is a way up and over the hill to Long Beach, but most travellers opt for the boat (THB100pp during the day and THB150pp after 18.30).
Long beach is about a 5-10 min long-tail boat ride from Tonsai. Many of the hotels offer a transfer service, so ask when you book. Mind, the chaos of finding your accommodation when you get to Tonsai is not an easy task! We had a transfer booked but were still left at the pier waiting for additional passengers for about 30 minutes. The saving grace is the 24/7 right at the pier which serves all kinds of foods, cold drinks and ice creams.
There are hotels further around the island and all of these require a long-tail boat, unless you book one of the few ferries which stop at Laemtong Beach (for hotels such as Zeavola, SAii and Erawan).
If you’re going to get a long tail boat it would be sensible to consider what you are wearing – you will be up to knee deep in water so unless you’re happy with getting your wardrobe wet, then consider shorts and flip flops/reef shoes.
Long Beach has a range of accommodation options along the beach. There are only one or two which have dedicated loungers and umbrellas on the beach so be prepared for getting up early, or finding a spot for your towel under a tree. The beach is probably a kilometre long and is glorious, white, powdery sand. Sunrise is a glorious time when there are few people about and the beach is quiet.
Accommodation options range along the beach for all budgets and requirements. Some are more family oriented such as Paradise Pearl and Paradise Bungalows; some come with stunning sea views, such as The Beach Resort. We opted for Long Beach Resort & Villa due to proximity to the beach and dive operator (but to be honest, nowhere is far here).
Eating and drinking:
Unless you’re in Tonsai, this is an island that likes a quiet evening. Most restaurants finish service at 21.00. There are a couple of later bars on the beach, such as Let’s Sea (close to The Beach Resort) and possibly at hotels, but for the most part is is dark and quiet by 22.00.
Restaurants tend to serve buffet breakfast. Lunches are less predictable. Those recommended on Long Beach include at Paradise Pearl. We did get a long tail into Tonsai and would 100% recommend Garlic 1992 – there is no booking, it is first come first serve, so get there early (or very late) but boy is it worthwhile!
Things to do:
This is island life….
The obvious pastime is a book (or podcast), the beach and the sea. But if that is too tame for you then….
– Sunsets: pick a resort or visit a beach pointing vaguely west, grab a drink (some do happy hours) and enjoy the mesmerising colours of the sunset over the island.
– Massage: there are options along the beach starting from THB400 for an hour (a bargain if you ask me!).
– Island tour: arrange a long-tail tour of Phi Phi Leh, Phi Phi Don and some of the harder to access beaches. Check out inclusions and length.
– Trip to Phi Phi Leh: home of Maya Bay, the iconic beach from The Beach. Check whether the bay is open for your travel dates as the Government close it at regular intervals for marine (shark) conservation. There are no boats moored in the bay and no swimming. If you go, then the boat will moor around the other side of the island and you will walk onto the beach. There are options starting from sunrise and running to sunset. Don’t always assume that sunrise will be quiet!
– Diving: marine life in the Andaman Sea is incredible with sharks, rays, turtles, Nemo and much more. On Long Beach, the option is Black Tip Scuba; at Tonsai there are many more options. There are also options at Laemtong Beach.
In summary:
There is something for everyone on Phi Phi. Decide what you want and therefore where you want to be, take a deep breath, soak in the island life and enjoy!
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